Visitor Journal - early October, 2024
On a recent trip to Boston, I set aside a few days for a spontaneous visit to Provincetown, and it turned out to be one of the best decisions I’ve made. The adventure began on a Friday afternoon ferry, the wind in my hair and a sense of anticipation growing as the quaint town came into view. Upon arrival at the pier, I hopped into a pedicab—my accommodation at the Aerie House was just a quick ride away, but the leisurely journey gave me my first taste of the town’s charm. Nestled just a block off Commercial Street, the Aerie House provided a peaceful haven from which to explore.
The next morning, I rented an e-bike and set off on a delightful ride from Wood End Lighthouse to Race Point Lighthouse, weaving through town and stopping at Herring Cove Beach just in time for a breathtaking sunset that painted the sky in hues of gold and rose. It felt as if the world had conspired to give me this perfect moment. The magic didn’t end there—back in town, I wandered into The Squealing Pig, a cozy pub with an Irish vibe where locals gather to unwind. Sitting at the bar, I was welcomed by Pete, who took great care of me, serving up a feast of Wellfleet oysters, smoky seafood chowder, and tender beef kabobs. The food was delicious, but what truly warmed my heart was the company. Friendly locals at the bar gave me tips on places to visit, and luck was on my side as I struck up a conversation with a charming gent who offered to show me around the next day.
Our impromptu adventure felt like a serendipitous “meet cute”—albeit with a twist, as we both happen to prefer the same sex, which made our instant friendship all the more fun. With an open mind and a sense of adventure, I embraced the unexpected and let the universe lead the way. We started the next day exploring Provincetown before driving out to Wellfleet, where the day unfolded like a series of beautiful vignettes.
We began at the Hatch House on Cape Cod Bay, learning about the history and architectural styles unique to the area. The blend of traditional and modern designs gave me a newfound appreciation for Cape Cod’s coastal character. A stop at PB Boulangerie Bistro and Bakery was a must. The line moved quickly, and once inside, the heavenly aroma made me want to try everything. We settled on a fresh tomato and mozzarella sandwich, an almond croissant, pain au chocolat, and a baguette for the road. Sitting on the patio, we soaked in the lively ambiance and indulged in some people-watching—it was lovely.
Next, we ventured to Newcomb Hollow Beach, where the Atlantic waves crashed dramatically against the shore. We strolled along the beach, climbed over the sand dunes, and took in the stunning views and distant houses. From there, a short walk led us to Horseleech Pond, a tranquil spot surrounded by nature's quiet beauty. My new friend, an architecture enthusiast, shared stories about the history of the area and pointed out hidden gems along the way, enriching the experience.
Continuing our journey, we headed to North Truro and stopped by Days Market and Deli for a lobster roll—both the original cold version and the hot "Connecticut" style. We sat outside, savoring each bite and catching the sunset’s last rays. It was the perfect ending to our day of exploration. As we drove back, we decided to wrap up our night where it began: at The Squealing Pig, enjoying a pint of Guinness and sharing stories of our day with other locals. The sense of community and camaraderie made the entire experience unforgettable.
Provincetown and Cape Cod enchanted me with their beauty, history, and welcoming atmosphere. I’m grateful for the chance encounter that led to an adventure filled with new sights, delicious food, and spontaneous friendship. One day wasn’t nearly enough to take it all in, and I left with a desire to return and explore more, especially Wellfleet’s galleries, which I hope to dive into on my next visit.
Additional highlights of the trip included a tasty Italian sandwich from East End Market, which I took to the beach for a picnic at sunset, and a delicious breakfast at Liz's Café —a perfect start before heading out for more sightseeing. I also found myself drawn to the B-Street Community Garden, a peaceful space filled with late-season blooms and locals tending their plots. It was a beautiful example of how much this town values its green spaces.
As a solo queer woman traveler, I felt embraced by Provincetown’s welcoming and inclusive spirit. The mix of locals and fellow visitors made the experience warm and relaxing, and I’m already dreaming of my return. I visited in the first week of October, the ideal time as the summer crowds had thinned, but the weather remained perfect, and there was still plenty to do.
Thank you, new friends and P-town, for a weekend of serendipity, beauty, and connection. I can’t wait to return!
Carmen A, Denver CO
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